Showing posts with label oranges. Show all posts
Showing posts with label oranges. Show all posts

10 December 2016

buttermilk-sourdough rye waffles with yogurt, orange flower water, oranges, and pomegranate seeds.

I almost never update this, but here's a waffle recipe I've been working on.



SOURDOUGH RYE WAFFLES
(adapted from a King Arthur recipe)

PREFERMENT
2.5 ounces sourdough culture
3 ounces water
3 ounces rye flour

OVERNIGHT SPONGE
8 ounces bread or AP flour
5 ounces rye flour
3 T sugar
3 cups buttermilk
Preferment from above

WAFFLE OR PANCAKE BATTER
all of the overnight sponge
3 large eggs
2.6 ounces melted butter
1 teaspoon salt
1.5 teaspoons baking soda
Zest from two oranges.

Two days before, mix preferment. Let sit overnight in a cool/room temperature spot.

The night before mix all ingredients for overnight sponge.

The morning of, add eggs, butter, salt, soda, and zest. Cook according to waffle maker instructions.





26 November 2013

"mrs. child's famous sticky fruitcake"

As Julia Child notes, "[t]his cake isn't sticky at all, but it started out that way during my first experiements, and the name has remained, as a family joke."1 And thus began my first experiment with fruitcake. I've made panforte and convinced my fruitcakephobic family to relish that, and Child's fruitcake seemed like good introduction to fruitcake (she has yet to fail me, from pastry to roast chicken).


 The fruitcake began with me making mixed peel: I blanched lemon and orange peel in water and then cooked them in syrup (I wasn't about to buy the overly processed peel at a grocery store, and I've never seen the higher quality stuff of which British pastry chefs talk).


The base is four pounds of peel and fruit: I used the aforementioned candied orange and lemon peel plus raisins, sultanas, zante currants, figs, candied ginger, sour cherries preserved in alcohol, unsulfured apricots, and prunes. This sits overnight with a pound of nuts (I used pecans and walnuts), a pound of mincemeat (I used some from Dan Lepard's recipe: I should have made it a month ago, but this'll be fine — and now I'll have mince for a Christmas pie), ⅔ c. rum, ⅓ c. bourbon, 1 tbsp. espresso, ¼ c. molasses, and a mix of 1 tsp. cardamom, ½ tsp. each cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and mace, and 1½ tsp. salt.


Above left is what that looks like after 24 hours of maceration, above left is tossed with 3½ c. flour with 1 tbsp. baking powder.


To that mixture is added ½ lb. butter that was creamed with 2 c. sugar, ⅓ c. brown sugar, 2 tbsp. vanilla and six eggs. This is then spooned into buttered and floured tins lined with parchement. I ended up with four loaves a little under a pound each, one toping two pounds and a sixth weighing in at almost three-and-a-half pounds (the smaller caked baked for 80 minutes, the larger for 120-130).



These smell lovely. I sprinkled more bourbon and rum atop, wrapped them up, and we'll see how they are in a month (if I can wait)!


1Julia Child, From Julia Child's Kitchen (New York: Grammercy, 1975), 583.

20 April 2013

Chocolate orange cake




A chocolate chiffon with Seville orange marmalade filling, chocolate ganache and freeze-dried Korean jeju mandarin oranges as garnish.

20 December 2012

almond-orange tart


I've been working on perfecting this tart, and I think I got it right. It's a flaky crust (pâte brisée) with orange frangipane cream. For the frangipane, I used 7 oz. butter mixed until creamy, and then creamed it with 7 oz. sugar (in two additions) and some salt (the basic recipe is Tartine's). To this I blended in 7 oz. of almond flour. I added the zest of one orange, 1 tbsp. brandy, 1 tbsp. orange flower water and one egg. Blend well, add a second egg and 1 tbsp milk. Spread in an unbaked, chilled tart mold (10 inches) and sprinkle with sliced almonds. Bake at 350º until set (≈45 mins) and glaze with the juice from the aforementioned orange reduced with 2 tbsp. apricot preserves.

This was really wonderful — and inspired by these orange blossom friands, which are also delicious.

30 December 2010

orange-fennel risotto


This was a mostly-by-chance and with-food-laying-around success: risotto with sautéed fennel added halfway through cooking, some lemon zest and juice (cooked with the fennel), a pinch of mace, and orange zest. Finish with parmesan (in the risotto and on the risotto, of course). Used chicken stock.

panforte


Have loved Tartine's recipe for panforte since I first made it. Quinces, orange peel, almonds, pistachios, hazelnuts, medjool dates, Zante currants and a whole lot of spice (black pepper, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, star anise) baked in a mixture of honey and sugar (cooked to 250ºF) with a little bit of flour and cocoa.


Once baked, it just begins to loose its sheen and puffs slightly. Cool for fifteen minutes or so, but not before it has glued itself to the pan.


Perfectly unmolded.


Finish with powdered sugar. Gets better after a few days and keeps forever: a medieval confection, panforte was one of the provisions crusaders took with them thanks to it keeping so well.

Happy 2011!

29 December 2010

canidied orange peel


Making panforte for New Year's Eve, and need candied orange peel. Nothing makes the house feel warm and relaxed like cooking oranges in sugar for three or four hours. (Will use quinces as well).

23 February 2009

blood orange marmalade


So a year ago when I tried this — and had great results — I didn't take any notes or leave any details in the blog post. So I had to start from scratch. And marmalade recipes vary greatly in method and proportions. Some have you slice the fruit and pick out the pips; June Taylor cuts the rind into triangles (which I tried and didn't like as much) and it appears that she candies the rind first; some have you juice the fruit and then chop the rind. Most have you hold the pips (and often membranes) for pectin (except the ones that use commercial pectin, which seems ridiculous). Worse, sugar ranges from about one-to-one to thrice(!) the quantity of fruit. Some measure the fruit in quantity, or weight, or juiced-and-peeled volume. It's overwhelming.

So I had a half dozen blood oranges that were really too bitter to eat. And then some lovely Meyer lemons to balance that out. I peeled the rind off of three Meyer lemons and juiced them: the rest I held back for the pectin bag. I cut the rind into strips about an eighth of an inch wide. I juiced the blood oranges very well, leaving very little membrane left inside. I cut those in the same manner. All the pips and membranes went into cheesecloth and was tied up (that's where most of the pectin is). I used about an equal weight of fruit and sugar.

I cooked the fruit and pectin bag for about twenty minutes to soften the fruit and then added the sugar. After fifteen minutes I took out the pectin sack and let it cool enough to squeeze out all that pectin. I cooked the marmalade until it jelled just enough on a saucer placed in the freezer, which was about 222ºF (and most recipes suggest 8º-10ºF above boiling). This was even more red than last time, and has great flavor. I might even use a tiny bit less sugar next time, but only as I like marmalade on the bitter side.

03 March 2008

sweet.

I've been enjoying the cookbook Breakfast•Lunch•Tea, a cookbook companion to Rose Carrarini's Rose Bakery in Paris. Her biscuits (cookies) that I've made have been nicely not to sweet, which is refreshing. (I made a bunch of the gingerbread biscuits around the holidays). This is her lemon cake. It's a pound cake of sorts, but not quite. I halved the recipe and put it in kougelhopf mold:

125 g. butter / 100 g. sugar / 2 eggs / ½t. vanilla / juice of ½ a lemon (I used a whole meyer lemon, since it's a little smaller) / zest of one lemon / ½ rounded t. baking powder / ¼ t. salt / 25 g. ground almonds / 140 g. AP flour.

The butter and sugar get creamed, the eggs beat in, then the vanilla and lemon juice and zest. the dry ingredients are folded in and it gets bakes for 25-30 minutes at 350ºF.



And last night I made blood-orange meyer lemon marmalade. I found both fruits on sale and organic so it seemed like I needed to find a great use for those rinds. It was really great for breakfast, on toast.

31 December 2007

waffles

This morning I made orange-rye waffles with walnuts. It's based on something I made a while ago, and then re-born out of a basic recipe for waffles (with rye and whole wheat flours and zest and nuts added).

Dry ingredients: 1c. AP flour, ½c. whole wheat, ½c. rye flour, 1 t. b. powder, ½t. soda, zest of one orange and a handful (maybe a cup?) of toasted, chopped walnuts.

Wet ingredients: 3 eggs, 1½ c. buttermilk, ¼c. oil.

Topping: 3 oranges, sectioned, in maple syrup.


It was really good. The (stone ground) rye flour gave it a nice crust and texture.

29 December 2007

panforte

I made, among other things (mostly cookies), panforte for the holidays. The recipe was from Tartine.

I candied two quinces and four oranges worth of peel. With that, figs, zante currants, hazlenuts, almonds and pistachio nuts. Add to that coriander, black pepper, cloves, cinnamon, chocolate powder and some (honestly, not a whole lot) flour. Over that is poured honey and sugar cooked to a soft-ball stage and it gets baked. It came out really incredible. Even sworn spice cake haters liked it.