apple nougatine tart

There's something about Tartine's apple nougatine tart that is simple and spectacular. The apples (three varities) are sautéed in butter and sugar beforehand, which creates a stable texture for the tart, reduces extra moisture, and creates a buttery-carmalized fillling.

The sautéed apples are layered in a fully-baked crust after being tossed with lemon juice and zest (which I used to deglaze the pan and reduced slightly). 

This is covered with a mixture of sliced almonds, sugar, and lightly whipped egg white (I prefer it slightly whipped to make the crust light).

And voilà: one of my favorite ways to consume apples. And it travelled well on the CTA to a friend's for dinner.

tatin

I've finally found the perfect combination of Midwest apple varieties for tarte tatin — and I can't remember one of them. Coming from Massachusetts, it's been a hurdle keeping track of local varieties, especially when I can't find apples that I had come to expect. One of the apples above is Winesap — a fabulously tart apple. The other is also a tart baking apple, and together the tart has a lemony aroma and taste that makes it one of the best that I have made.

mushroom tart

I was hoping for something like oyster mushrooms, but the market today was devoid as apparently they have been finicky this season: either growing faster than they sell or not much at all.

Nevertheless, crimini make for a great base, with a good deal of shitake (about a ½ lb crimini, ⅓ lb shitake). Sauté onions and shallots, add sliced mushrooms, salt and pepper. De-glaze with the juice of a lemon and a splash of brandy.

And voilà: baked in a partially prebaked tart shell with a mixture of crème fraîche (8 oz.), egg yolks (3), fresh thyme, and topped with anchovies.

(Modified slightly from Tartine [Prueitt and Robertson, 2006])

the glory of the apricot

Harold McGee, in On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen, explains that the "almond" flavor that one expects—and doesn't find in almonds—is benzaldehyde, which is found in bitter almonds and other stone fruits. Unfortunately, the kernels of stone fruits contain both benzaldehyde and cyanide, so they are illegal in the United States—"Our safe 'sweet' almond varieties lack both the bitterness and the characteristic aroma."

I generally make frangipane tarts with almonds and almond extract, but this time I made an apricot-frangipane tart studded with Rainier cherries, and I added two raw apricot kernels (ground up with the almonds and sugar) instead of almond extract (to a three-cup frangipane batch). The apricots were skinned (by blanching) to keep the frangipane from pulling away from the fruit.

The difference was noticable: the tart has a wonderful aroma (it may not be my most beautiful, but the crust was beautifully flaky and it was my most delicious) and the flavor was far superior. I'm not advocating eating apricot kernals in large quanity, certainly, but a couple go a long way. Just wrap the pit in a towel, place on a hard surface (stone, or concrete) and tap with a hammer—voilà: a better frangipane.

rhubarb tart with strawberries and orange flower water

This is a rhubarb tart that I pulled together (also inspired by the new Deborah Madison book): I cooked a pound of chopped rhubarb with the zest and juice of an orange and a ½ cup of sugar. Once that softened, I added a handfull of halved strawberries (reserving most for garnishing since they were too gorgeous to cook) and ½ tsp. of tapioca starch and let it cook for about five minutes. To this I added a splash of orange flower water and let it cool, and I then placed it into a fully baked, and cooled, flaky tart shell (which had been coated with egg near the end of its baking). I added ⅓ of a vanilla bean to a ½-pint of heavy cream and let that sit while the tart set. To serve, I whipped the cream with another splash of orange flower water and some sugar. Finish with halved strawberries.

almond-orange tart

I've been working on perfecting this tart, and I think I got it right. It's a flaky crust (pâte brisée) with orange frangipane cream. For the frangipane, I used 7 oz. butter mixed until creamy, and then creamed it with 7 oz. sugar (in two additions) and some salt (the basic recipe is Tartine's). To this I blended in 7 oz. of almond flour. I added the zest of one orange, 1 tbsp. brandy, 1 tbsp. orange flower water and one egg. Blend well, add a second egg and 1 tbsp milk. Spread in an unbaked, chilled tart mold (10 inches) and sprinkle with sliced almonds. Bake at 350º until set (≈45 mins) and glaze with the juice from the aforementioned orange reduced with 2 tbsp. apricot preserves.

This was really wonderful — and inspired by these orange blossom friands, which are also delicious.