matsutake in broth

Matsutake, day two.

A mix of very clear chicken and duck broths, lightly salted, and brought to the point of almost simmering. I let that reduce slowly while doing other things.

Add julienned leeks and thinly sliced matsutake. Bring to a quick simmer, serve immediately, garnished with a few drops of sesame oil.

Absolutely incredible. The broth was full-bodied but simple, the leeks lent a mild allium kick, together making a perfect backdrop for the lightly poached matsutakes.

roast chicken

This big fellow was one of the roosters recently slaughtered; I wanted to make its preparation simple to highlight the bird itself — this is the first animal I have eaten in whose slaughter I was involved. I made an herb butter with unsalted butter, salt, tarragon, garlic, lemon, brandy and thyme. I spread that in and out and under the skin of the breast.


I started the bird at 425ºF, rotating it from side to breast-up-to side and then leaving it on it's side at 350º. (Julia Child suggests the majority of the roast to be on its sides — switch sides halfway through). It finished breast up.


I made a quick gravy with drippings, butter and vermouth and we had this with lightly steamed and buttered zucchini and squash (thanks Molly!), a fennel-potato-spring onion gratin, and a brown rice "risotto" with porchini and reduced stock from those feet. The meat was incredibly tender, flavorful and incredibly satisfying. Nothing compared to those industrial birds.

Served with raspberry-cranberry braggot and finished with Molly's tart blueberry-peach crisp, this was perfect.

a very rich stock indeed.

Every now and I then I make a truly great stock. It'll be golden (or amber, if beef), rich, clean and will set lightly when cooled. I've taken to not roasting, sautéeing or otherwise pre-cooking anything (unless, naturally, this is leftover from roasting something else). This reduces fat that'll have to be skimmed off anyway. I've also been using a slow cooker, which works splendidly.


Vegetables: carrots, whole parsley, fennel. There's also allspice, salt and peppercorns.


Feet — for gelatin, body and the flavor that comes with the bones — and necks — for that meat flavor and more bone richness. About 3 lbs total.


The feet need to be blanched for five minutes and then the tips and any pieces of the skin that won't come clean get cut off.


Everything gets tossed in the crock pot. High for five hours with the lid ajar, five hours at low.


And it sets like this, no reduction necessary. Rich and smooth when warm, not quite clear but very meaty (I haven't the patience to clarify stock, I usually just strain it three or four times). Some day I'll take this to the next level and make a consommé.

101

Nothing is quite so satisfying than making a stock so rich it gels.

And then freezing it in ice cube trays for easy access.